A brief history, a brief explanation of house design principles, a few plan pictures and catch up postings

BRIEF HISTORY:

Why we are doing this can be partially garnered form the "Extra Message" (now removed) in the heading of this blog.

Some of the other motivating factors include the following:

Export surplus clean green renewable energy into the grid (there are issues with this such as energy storage);  conservation of non renewable fossil fuels and reduction of pollution; cultivate a lifestyle of conservation and non materialism; produce as much of our own food as possible, using organic permaculture, to address food quality issues, food security and pollution in its generation, processing and transportation; help spread awareness; get more involved and gain a greater understanding and appreciation for the natural world that ultimately sustains us,  eventually connect with and build meaningful relationships and community with like minded people ( for example http://communityplanet.org/blog ) and ultimately live a more enjoyable life.

Again, I must stress that although the things listed above are necessary for a better future, the current mass ignorance and/or  ambivalence about these issues are simply symptoms of our current system's underlying value disorders (that we can correct if we choose).  Solutions being attempted (unfortunately most environmental activism) under current "market systems" have proven incapable of affecting significant and lasting change (for example these things are often near impossible if you can't afford them in our current system).  Please see John McMurtry's (professor, University of Guelph) book, "The Cancer Stage of Capitalism" for further understanding.  Here is a link to a brief synopsis http://www.islandnet.com/plethora/mai/cancer.html.

We began doing our own research for this project in the summer of 2009.  I had drawn some preliminary designs in Google SketchUp but we decided (for many reasons) in October of 2009, after we had purchased the land,  that we would look for design help.  In February 2010 we started working with an ecotect (ecology versus arches in architecture) firm in Calgary called A.S.H Inc.
(http://www.ecobuildings.net/architectural_design.php), Helen and Jorg Ostrowski, including Romy Sancio, drafts person (drafting in Micro Station), Monsour Nabil, Solar Engineering Group Ltd, mechanical, and Verlin Koch, KTA structural engineers, in the design.  I was also maintaining a 3D drawing  with some of the details in Google SketchUp for most of this process.  Our plan was to begin construction in late summer or early fall of 2010 but that did not materialize and it was put off until early (as possible) this spring, 2011.  Due to this delay I decided to redraw essentially all of the plans myself in Google SketchUp including plan views in Google Layout (had to purchase the Pro version), including more detail in certain areas in the hopes that it would speed construction, allow me to be more certain about areas I was unsure of, make changes (I made a few) and generate a materials list as needed.


BRIEF EXPLANATION OF DESIGN PRINCIPLES FOR HOUSE:

The house is oriented for maximum passive solar gain and designed for solar gain heat storage (i.e., long side running east/west, optimized glazing on south face, thermal mass (6" concrete slab, masonry heater, rammed earth wall) for heat storage.  Some of the material criteria are low embodied energy, environmentally friendly (e.g., no VOCs, CFC's or other hazardous chemicals in their production, recycled material etc.), renewable and sustainable, low maintenance, ability to actually get it constructed (too far from the norm and no one with experience or understanding) and of course the ever present and ridiculous how many digits in a banks computer system we have to exchange for them.  Obviously it is very difficult to meet all of the criteria to their maximum potential so weighted compromise is ultimately involved.  The salt box design was chosen because it is one of the most efficient passive solar designs (influence from the book "The Passive Solar House" by James Kachadorian).  Added hip roof (deflects winds better), centre dormer (with window for more natural light), push out (a little more room for the dining area and allows a small balcony above) and middle overhang (shading for lower windows) to try and break up a bit of the blandness (subjective) of a traditional salt box house, although there is some functionality to each item as listed.  Although the entire footprint looks fairly large due to the attached garage, mudroom and greenhouse, we have attempted to make the house reasonably small to avoid trying to heat a large space and minimize materials, which is probably the first rule of sustainable design.  The windows have been optimized by orientation (purchased from Thermotech Fiberglass Fenestration in Ottawa).  The roof will most likely be aluminum but we have still not decided on the siding material (this is proving to be difficult), although we have ruled out some materials like vinyl (although I cannot find definitive information on its current use concerning health and sustainability ). (Sept. 2011 update - decided on eastern white cedar shingles factory stained for siding.  Fairly locally sourced (northern NewBrunswick) and sustainable to a large degree).  We have purchased a Wildfire masonry heater kit and hope to burn about 1 - 2 chord of wood per year to relieve the brunt of the electric heating required, perhaps allowing for excess wind turbine electricity to run an electric vehicle.  The heater is also a good backup in case of a power outage.  Masonry heaters burn wood at very high temperatures (~600 deg. C) and then funnel the gasses through masonry, before going up the chimney, to store the energy (developed in Europe 100's of years ago as they were burning down all of the trees to heat buildings (royal castles..) with no insulation, but not many people here seem to be aware of them... I wasn't either).  Because of the complete burn you get very little particulate matter and creosote.  You burn 1 (or possibly 2 if really cold) fires per day and the masonry radiates heat (radiant heat is really the best kind) for the next 12-24hrs.  I have salvaged ~3 chord of hardwood that was blown over on Robert's (Angela's father) farm, so considering that would have rotted and released methane into the atmosphere anyway, I should be close to net zero emissions after burning it (if I continue to use salvaged wood).  Here is a link article on masonry heaters by Mark Twain http://mainewoodheat.com/2009/01/mark-twain-on-masonry-heaters/
We hope to grow food in the greenhouse for 10-11 months of the year and practice permaculture in the summer.
We have purchased a 10KW Bergy wind turbine through a local dealer.  According to the Canadian Wind Energy Atlas we should produce approx. 39 000 KWH of electricity annually at this location but the seller says it will be closer to 20 000 Kwh.  We decided to connect to the grid due to the relatively poor performance, short life, cost and hazards (gassing, acid) of lead acid batteries (the most common batteries currently used for off grid systems).  I did look into vanadium batteries but the cost is currently quite extreme ($50 000.00 US for 5KW).  The potential is interesting however.

The other main design elements are mentioned in the title of this blog (including super insulated and very air tight using air tight drywall approach).  I may expand on them at a later date.  I researched many other things for possible inclusion but rejected them for various reasons.  We also hope to keep this blog active through our attempts to become permacultuists (but as stated previously much more work to do on this front).

A FEW PLAN PICTURES (These are from the plans I drew in Google SketchUp.  I also have a complete set of plans from ASH Inc.,  although I have made some changes)

House design on lot in Google Earth

Isometric

South view.  Glazing for passive solar heat gain.

East view

North view. Minimum glazing.  Garage is buffer to north winds.  Salt box design so north roof slope to 1st level and deflects winds.  Covered porch for hot summer days (we get so many).

West view.  Minimum glazing so don't get over heating in summer from setting sun.

Basement Interior for mechanical room and root cellar

First Floor Interior shown with all of the furniture we currently have

2nd Floor Interior shown with all of the furniture we currently have

For some reason I didn't post this "catch up post" in reverse chronological order as per the blog format (oh well).


There was a lot of work on planning (drawing plans, researching materials, techniques, building science etc. getting quotes) and working with the ecotects that preceded this blog that I am not going to try and catch up on.

I have the plans (the outer shell anyway) in Google Earth so I can e-mail that to you if you like and you can check out what it is supposed to look like on the lot when it is finished.  It is a kmz file and you would have to have Google Earth installed.

It doesn't show all of the details that will make the house eco plus.  For that I would have to send you the +50MB plans (so I probably won't).  This blog should show much of the details.


Here are a few pictures of the lot pre-construction.

Looking South from house location.  Pretty fall colors.

Looking ENE towards road from house location

 

Country Rocker John Morgan (Angela's sister Kathie's husband) at the lot at sunset

Check out John Morgan at http://johnmorganmusic.com

House location topsoil striped with batter boards

Here are some pictures of the forms I (with help from others) built for the concrete slab in the shop I set up in one of Robert's (Angela's dad) barns. Straw round bales in background.

The pictures above and below shows how I clamped the 1/2" PT basement grade plywood to the 12"X12" EPS type 2 foam insulation.  On the left I am using one of the door ladders and some weights to clamp down the plywood to the insulation.

Door Ladders with anchor bolts and metal brackets

 May 3, 2011: Concrete crew (Claude Gallant, Egmont Bay Construction) excavated hole and poured footings.  This is apparently the big start everyone gets excited about.  Dig a hole!

Claude and Ivan Gallant (Egmont Bay Construction) and the Excavator

Building Footings for small mechanical room and root cellar basement

May 4, 2011:  Waterproofed footings with Blue Seal elastomeric coating. (Brody worked on farm for ~2 hours)   Decided to put in stronger drain tile than the black corrugated stuff.

Footings for basement with rebar for walls and Blue Seal elastormeric coating (and bald jumping geek)

May 5, 2011:  Drove around in the truck picking up supplies and watched concrete crew put up forms and pour basement walls.

Placing forms for basement walls (easy with the right gear)

Pouring basement walls

May 6, 2011:  Brody's Birthday (He slept in).  Waterproofing outside basement walls with Blue Seal elastomeric painted on coating. 6 - 5 gallon pails @ $140.00 / pail. = $ 840.00 plus tax.  Contractor wanted ~$2200.00 to power spray.  More strange looks from contractors when they see what I am doing.  If you are not doing the standard cookie cutter your obviously nuts, so when I tell them this is really not near far enough I am pretty sure I am not getting through.

Blue Seal (elastomeric coating..painted on rubber) on basement walls and drain tile (Brent in background)

May 7, 2011:  Brody worked on farm for Robert.  Angela waterproofed basement walls while I worked on drain tile and basement drains.  Had to dig out black drain through footings as no way to attach other PVC pipe.  Very difficult.  Hurt back.  Must be more careful. Angela scared of heights and doesn't like walking across 2X4's to get into basement. 

May 8, 2011:  Sunday.  Angela finished waterproofing basement walls in am.  Finished basement drain.  Dylan helped.    Used PVC :-( (contributing to more sick poor people – see documentary blue vinyl).  Sold me ~5 pieces with no holes and had to drill them so could have just bought ABS pipe and drilled the holes.  Guy at Mr. Plumber says ABS is going up ~30% due to resin price increase (so more economic reason for people to use the less enviro. friendly PVC – Just another example of decision making through money being completely ridiculous).

May 9, 2011:  Lots of rain.  Picked up lumber (2X6 for basement joist strongbacks, PT plywood to finish north outside basement walls, 2X12 wailers for RE forms, ordered hardwood wedges for forms from Chandler Bros.  Ordered 2- 12”X2'x8'  insulation for N basement.  Picked up 15 more sheets of 2” insulation.)

May 10, 2011:  Lots of rain. (Brody is sleeping in, I am not waking him).  Ordered pneumatic tamper for rammed earth wall as can't rent anywhere. Built garage door thermal break thresholds.  Can't get any rot resistant wood (e.g., black locust) anywhere so will try pressure treat and coat with epoxy and see how it lasts.  Can always unscrew from anchor bolts and replace with something else later.  Re-cut garage slab insulation as had cut wrong (12” instead of 8” :-(. Basement hole has caved in somewhat on filter fabric.  Will need to clean out.

May 11, 2011:  Still raining and cold 7 deg C.  Jeremy digs trench and Erwin roughs in power.

Zoomed out view of trench for power

Power from Utility (Maritime Electric) wind turbine, phone cable and extra conduit with string.

May 12, 2011:  Still raining and cold 8 deg C.  Finish gluing up forms (doors).  Pick up pipes for clamps at Mr Plumber.  Order pipe clamps from Home Hardware (will be in next Tuesday).  Cut some of the insulation for basement walls.

May 13, 2011:  Start at 8:00 am (first time for Brody).  Still cold ~8deg C but sun peaked out and no rain.  Put on ~3/4 of basement insulation.  Hopeful the glue (Dupont PL300) holds.  Supposed to be put on between 15-32 deg C and then clamped for 24hrs.  Bury power cables pole to house and turbine cable.  Pick up 1” plywood and wedges for RE forms and 17 more 2” 4'X8' insulation.

May 14, 2011:  Saturday.  Cloudy, foggy, misting ~8 deg C. Weather says  rain for next week.  Brody doesn't want to work so don't press the issue.  Finished basement insulation by myself.  Put filter fabric back around drain tile (as had placed it on wall after trench caved in and covered with mud).  More rain forecast for tomorrow.

2" EPS Type 2 (no CFC's) around exterior basement

May 15, 2011:  Sunday.  Raining in am.  Rain forecast for the next eternity give or take.  Finished slab forms in barn (door ladders).  Angela and Brent started Delta Drain (dimpled membrane with Geo Textile Fabric) over insulation to create water drainage plane and air barrier for soil gas (radon) in the rain and mud.  It is all tied in to Delta MS under the slab and the drain tile which goes to the air tight sump and will be vented through the roof if we in fact do get radon (will measure for radon after we are finished).  There have been two studies by the PEI government and they have tested all government building and found elevated levels of radon in several, so mitigating it at the construction stage is the best solution.